
In a couple of months I am going to New Mexico for a hat fitting. This might seem a little extravagant, but you don't know my milliner, Madame Chapeau, an extraordinary woman. She is of Comanche stock, and quite indestructible. After many years ekeing out a bohemian and somewhat undocumented existence in Paris, she returned to her ancestral homelands in Taos, where she has diversified into floral arrangements for the local native American owned casino. She speaks French with the most delightful western twang and smokes cheroots incessantly, whence her tribal name, Smokin' Squaw McGraw.
Smokin' Squaw looking suitably indestructible with one of her creations
(she's the one on the right). Photo by Jaap Vanderplas
Taos is the most godawful place to get to. The nearest airport is Albuquerque, which you can only get to from Denver or Los Angeles. So I thought what the hell, I know people in Beverly Hills. Little George Clooney is always asking me to come over and teach him macramé. After factoring in a stopover in Hollywood (oh! the glamour!), I shall fly from LA to Albuquerque, then continue on the famous Atchison Topeka and Santa Fe railroad. As can be seen from this clip, a new bonnet is de rigueur in Sante Fe.
Smokin' Squaw looking suitably indestructible with one of her creations(she's the one on the right). Photo by Jaap Vanderplas
Taos is the most godawful place to get to. The nearest airport is Albuquerque, which you can only get to from Denver or Los Angeles. So I thought what the hell, I know people in Beverly Hills. Little George Clooney is always asking me to come over and teach him macramé. After factoring in a stopover in Hollywood (oh! the glamour!), I shall fly from LA to Albuquerque, then continue on the famous Atchison Topeka and Santa Fe railroad. As can be seen from this clip, a new bonnet is de rigueur in Sante Fe.
Madame Chapeau-McGraw and I knew each other in Paris many years back, where she made the extravagant headdresses for the tableaux at the Folies. I remember one magnificent headdress she made for me made entirely out of bananas. I can't quite remember what the dance was, but I know it was banned after the first performance. I am told I cannot take fresh fruit into California, so if I have to transit via LAX on the way home, I'll eat my hat.







