FARO FROM THE MADDING CROWD

Finally in the Algarve, we found ourselves with an evening to kill in Faro, and explored the town. It wasn't exactly kicking. Apart from a quite agreeable restaurant which Dr Gorbals turned up on his magic app, and a pleasant little bar where I had a cheeky ginginha, not much to report (although I quietly clocked the modern shopping centre near our hotel). We were due to pick up one of our guests at Faro airport the next morning, but after he changed his flight times we found ourselves with the best part of Saturday to kill so pootled off to Olhao, a market town recommended by Lucy Pepper, and bought provisions for the villa.
On the motorway towards Carvoeiro, where our villa was situated, the skies darkened and it started to rain slightly. There were flood warnings in place for Faro and Albufeira. The villa was straight out of 'Sexy Beast' or 'Mad Dogs', a real gangster's hideaway. We dashed off to the local supermarket to stock up on basics. The local Intermarché was a shopper's dream, with wide aisles, good lighting, floors clean enough to eat off, and a vast array of British, French, German, and Scandinavian products as well as Spanish and Portuguese brands. The wine section was rather how I imagine Heaven. Who knew there was such a vast range of wine in Portugal? Vinho verde, branco, tinto, vinhos from the Alentejo, the Minho, the Dao, the Douro, the Algarve ... The ultimate Euro supermarket. We had to stock up with litres and kilos of stuff, which would no doubt end up with the cleaner - someone should design a Villa Pack of small quantities of condiments and toiletries to last a week. We returned to the villa with a week's basics, to find The Blonde and Chef waiting outside the gates.
The Blonde used to be a Paris boiler room queen in the 1980s, a kind of Ladyfingers for the overheated financial derivatives sector. Now retired on her ill-gotten gains, she had acquired a mortgage-default hacienda up in the spaghetti-western lunar landscape of Andalucia, and lived there alone, except for three dogs, two cats and an irascible French chef called, er, Chef. Chef had some shady history involving Algeria and some missing gold. He acted as her driver, bodyguard, cook and wine merchant.
As they settled in, I had to return to Faro to pick up our remaining guest, Metro. Metro was a suave, urbane, metrosexual (hence his nickname) confirmed bachelor and ladykiller from London. He decanted from the plane with a suitcase the size of a house. "Supplies," he whispered conspiratorially. It took us half an hour to get out of the airport car park, due to minibusloads of tourists loading up their golf clubs and blocking us in. Eventually we were on the road back to Carvoeiro, by this time the heavens had opened and I could barely see in front of me on the unlit motorway. The windscreen wipers were going faster than the car. We finally made it back to the villa around 9 p.m. to find Chef three sheets to the wind and nothing on the table. Metro decanted his "supplies" which consisted of several bottles of high-end gin and mixers. Dinner was served Andalucian style, i.e. around midnight. Made mental note to remind Chef about the hour's time difference.
Chef was a bad-tempered Gascon who hated everywhere and everyone outside of France, and most of France as well. The only parts of the world he liked was the parts where they play rugby, and even then he bitched about the food in most of them (except in one village in the south-west of France). He was particularly scathing about Portuguese food. French cuisine was superior to everything else, and was treated with religious devotion. Thus there was the twice-daily mass, heralded by a short prayer: "Bon, c'est l'heure de l'apéro," followed by the taking of communion, in the form of a cocktail concocted by Metro from one of the many bottles he had brought in his voluminous suitcase. Then would follow a three-course lunch or dinner, with wine. As soon as the dishes were cleared away, Chef would start planning the next meal. He lived from meal to meal. We started to feel like fatted geese by the end of the week, and didn't get out of the house much.
Although the villa was perfect and exactly like in the photos, the famed Algarve weather did not live up to expectations. A weather front was rolling in from the Atlantic, and continued to roll in. For the rest of the week, the weather changed from one minute to the next, resulting in Chaplineque scenes around the pool, running sunbed cushions in and out, Metro seizing every opportunity to top up his tan and Chef grumbling that only French weather was reliable. The barbecue was abandoned by Tuesday, as the charcoal was so damp.
Occasionally the sun did come out and we braved an excursion, to Lagos or up into the hills. Chef drove us to Monchique, and after a cursory glance in the window of a kichenware shop which was closed, declared the town of no interest and drove us back down. Food markets and kitchenware shops were the only thing outside the kitchen that interested him, apart from rugby, and if there was no market, he would take a cursory glance inside the church and look at his watch. He shopped every day at Intermarché, a French-owned chain of supermarkets. We visited another supermarket, Apolonia, which made Waitrose look like Lidl, but he wrote it off as too expensive, although the real reason was probably that it wasn't French.
The only thing Chef was not gastrofascist about was coffee. I made a point of preparing fresh cafetière coffee every morning, even though I am a tea drinker, to keep him happy, only to see him return from Intermarché one day with a jar of Nescafé. He also had a penchant for instant mashed potato, which he admittedly gussied up with cheese, but even so I was shocked. I wondered where he had learned to cook. I believe he was in the Foreign Legion for a number of years. One night he was sulking and went on strike, so I rustled up one of my leftover pasta cheese bakes with powdered cheese sauce. He asked for seconds.
All in all it was not an unpleasant week, although I have learned a lot about villa holidays and about Portuguese weather. The pool was used precisely once. However, my mission to investigate Portugal as the next and final stage of my international wanderings is still ongoing. As Dr Gorbals tactfully put it: Portugal would be a good place to die.

Finally in the Algarve, we found ourselves with an evening to kill in Faro, and explored the town. It wasn't exactly kicking. Apart from a quite agreeable restaurant which Dr Gorbals turned up on his magic app, and a pleasant little bar where I had a cheeky ginginha, not much to report (although I quietly clocked the modern shopping centre near our hotel). We were due to pick up one of our guests at Faro airport the next morning, but after he changed his flight times we found ourselves with the best part of Saturday to kill so pootled off to Olhao, a market town recommended by Lucy Pepper, and bought provisions for the villa.
On the motorway towards Carvoeiro, where our villa was situated, the skies darkened and it started to rain slightly. There were flood warnings in place for Faro and Albufeira. The villa was straight out of 'Sexy Beast' or 'Mad Dogs', a real gangster's hideaway. We dashed off to the local supermarket to stock up on basics. The local Intermarché was a shopper's dream, with wide aisles, good lighting, floors clean enough to eat off, and a vast array of British, French, German, and Scandinavian products as well as Spanish and Portuguese brands. The wine section was rather how I imagine Heaven. Who knew there was such a vast range of wine in Portugal? Vinho verde, branco, tinto, vinhos from the Alentejo, the Minho, the Dao, the Douro, the Algarve ... The ultimate Euro supermarket. We had to stock up with litres and kilos of stuff, which would no doubt end up with the cleaner - someone should design a Villa Pack of small quantities of condiments and toiletries to last a week. We returned to the villa with a week's basics, to find The Blonde and Chef waiting outside the gates.
The Blonde used to be a Paris boiler room queen in the 1980s, a kind of Ladyfingers for the overheated financial derivatives sector. Now retired on her ill-gotten gains, she had acquired a mortgage-default hacienda up in the spaghetti-western lunar landscape of Andalucia, and lived there alone, except for three dogs, two cats and an irascible French chef called, er, Chef. Chef had some shady history involving Algeria and some missing gold. He acted as her driver, bodyguard, cook and wine merchant.
As they settled in, I had to return to Faro to pick up our remaining guest, Metro. Metro was a suave, urbane, metrosexual (hence his nickname) confirmed bachelor and ladykiller from London. He decanted from the plane with a suitcase the size of a house. "Supplies," he whispered conspiratorially. It took us half an hour to get out of the airport car park, due to minibusloads of tourists loading up their golf clubs and blocking us in. Eventually we were on the road back to Carvoeiro, by this time the heavens had opened and I could barely see in front of me on the unlit motorway. The windscreen wipers were going faster than the car. We finally made it back to the villa around 9 p.m. to find Chef three sheets to the wind and nothing on the table. Metro decanted his "supplies" which consisted of several bottles of high-end gin and mixers. Dinner was served Andalucian style, i.e. around midnight. Made mental note to remind Chef about the hour's time difference.
Chef was a bad-tempered Gascon who hated everywhere and everyone outside of France, and most of France as well. The only parts of the world he liked was the parts where they play rugby, and even then he bitched about the food in most of them (except in one village in the south-west of France). He was particularly scathing about Portuguese food. French cuisine was superior to everything else, and was treated with religious devotion. Thus there was the twice-daily mass, heralded by a short prayer: "Bon, c'est l'heure de l'apéro," followed by the taking of communion, in the form of a cocktail concocted by Metro from one of the many bottles he had brought in his voluminous suitcase. Then would follow a three-course lunch or dinner, with wine. As soon as the dishes were cleared away, Chef would start planning the next meal. He lived from meal to meal. We started to feel like fatted geese by the end of the week, and didn't get out of the house much.
Although the villa was perfect and exactly like in the photos, the famed Algarve weather did not live up to expectations. A weather front was rolling in from the Atlantic, and continued to roll in. For the rest of the week, the weather changed from one minute to the next, resulting in Chaplineque scenes around the pool, running sunbed cushions in and out, Metro seizing every opportunity to top up his tan and Chef grumbling that only French weather was reliable. The barbecue was abandoned by Tuesday, as the charcoal was so damp.
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| Cataplana - Algarvian kitchenware |
The only thing Chef was not gastrofascist about was coffee. I made a point of preparing fresh cafetière coffee every morning, even though I am a tea drinker, to keep him happy, only to see him return from Intermarché one day with a jar of Nescafé. He also had a penchant for instant mashed potato, which he admittedly gussied up with cheese, but even so I was shocked. I wondered where he had learned to cook. I believe he was in the Foreign Legion for a number of years. One night he was sulking and went on strike, so I rustled up one of my leftover pasta cheese bakes with powdered cheese sauce. He asked for seconds.
All in all it was not an unpleasant week, although I have learned a lot about villa holidays and about Portuguese weather. The pool was used precisely once. However, my mission to investigate Portugal as the next and final stage of my international wanderings is still ongoing. As Dr Gorbals tactfully put it: Portugal would be a good place to die.











