
The mercury has finally heaved itself into double figures and I am spending the weekend in my spiritual home, the City of Lights, eternal Paris, for some R&R with the Hornblowers in their luxurious pad ten minutes from the Arc de Triomphe and a little bit of business about a handbag.
Although, you know, the old place isn't what it used to be. It's all getting a bit pedestrian for my liking. There are Starbucks everywhere, for God's sake. McDonald's is still going great guns, even though they're Frenchified it somewhat. Monoprix, my favourite shop, has gone all trendy, and everywhere is non-smoking these days - how's an existentialist supposed to pose without a Gitane in hand? I'm not even that keen on the new sparkly Eiffel Tower, frankly I think it's cheap and nasty, but it makes the nouveau riche Chinese tourists go "ooh".
When I lived there, there was magic in the air. Surreal things would happen. Once, after a night on the town, I was sauntering down the Champs-Elysées to catch the last metro, when I caught in my peripheral vision someone walking behind me, slightly to the side, under the trees. I looked back over my shoulder and saw - I kid you not - Charlie Chaplin waddling down the avenue. He waggled his moustache and tipped his hat. I stopped to let him catch me up. "Bonjour" he said, offering me his arm. And Charlot and I walked all the way to the metro arm in arm. That was how Paris was in those days. Mad.

But some things don't change. The Seine is still the most picturesque and romantic city-centre river in the world. The Parisians are still stylish, elegant and arrogant. The smell of a fresh baguette is still heavenly. And whenever I'm there, I'm 28 again.
Although, you know, the old place isn't what it used to be. It's all getting a bit pedestrian for my liking. There are Starbucks everywhere, for God's sake. McDonald's is still going great guns, even though they're Frenchified it somewhat. Monoprix, my favourite shop, has gone all trendy, and everywhere is non-smoking these days - how's an existentialist supposed to pose without a Gitane in hand? I'm not even that keen on the new sparkly Eiffel Tower, frankly I think it's cheap and nasty, but it makes the nouveau riche Chinese tourists go "ooh".
When I lived there, there was magic in the air. Surreal things would happen. Once, after a night on the town, I was sauntering down the Champs-Elysées to catch the last metro, when I caught in my peripheral vision someone walking behind me, slightly to the side, under the trees. I looked back over my shoulder and saw - I kid you not - Charlie Chaplin waddling down the avenue. He waggled his moustache and tipped his hat. I stopped to let him catch me up. "Bonjour" he said, offering me his arm. And Charlot and I walked all the way to the metro arm in arm. That was how Paris was in those days. Mad.

But some things don't change. The Seine is still the most picturesque and romantic city-centre river in the world. The Parisians are still stylish, elegant and arrogant. The smell of a fresh baguette is still heavenly. And whenever I'm there, I'm 28 again.




