I'm still speechless. Which is just as well. Because what I would have said regarding the England v Portugal match was unrepeatable. I watched the extra time and penalties in the middle of a crowd of Portugal fans on my second day at Couleur Cafe. Perhaps the laryngitis was God's way of making me keep my mouth shut.
Well we've seen the French prime minister in charge of the Argentina World Cup team, let's now hear it for the Brazilian Minister of Culture doing a gig at Couleur Cafe. Gilberto Gil (for it was he) has not gone all elder-statesman since he became a government minister. He's grown dreadlocks. He is one of the most perfectly preserved over-60's I have ever seen. He is well fit, as my friend Cynthia might say, and his voice is as powerful as ever. He looks rather like what I imagine Bob Marley might look like now, were he still with us. And he sang a few of Marley's songs, if I had had a few more sherbets I might have thought it was the shade of the old Buffalo Soldier himself. He is a good 12 or 13 years younger than James Brown, but I suspect has looked after himself a bit better and will just get better as he gets older. Brazilians seem to have such good genes, which I hope will not be diluted by recent imports such as Ronnie Biggs and Grant Mitchell. However, I do think this practice of government Ministers going round playing gigs should be stopped. If we're not careful, Tone will be back on the road with the Ugly Rumours.
Gilberto went off to watch Brazil v France (poor man, I bet he wished now he'd stayed and given us "Girl from Ipanema"). Before heading for the main attraction, I visited a couple of other tents to see what else was going on at Couleur Cafe. Amparanoia and Think of One were starting up in different tents. Not bad - Amparo is almost certainly Manu Chao's
long-lost twin sister. Didn't know what to make of the other lot, the heavy drumming nearly brought on an angina attack. I wandered round some craft stalls, watched a drumming lesson, watched the giant carnival figures with their drummers wander through the crowd, and had a plate of delicious rice and chicken from the Nigerian stall. I strolled back to the main tent to await Seun Anikulapo Kuti & Africa 80.
Seun’s late father, Fela Anikulapo (“He-who-carries-death- in-his-pouch”) Kuti (Woyayah! Praise be to his ancestors!) was a remarkable musician (sax and keyboards) and Nigerian political activist. Seun and his older brother Femi are carrying on the tradition, both sax players, taking their dad’s infectious highlife-funk mix around the world tinged with a political and environmental message. The Kuti family have the distinction of representing a whole genre of music - Afrobeat - all by themselves. Although Seun had to start off playing to
a half-full tent, being in competition with the Brazil-France match, by the end of his set the tent was overflowing and everyone, including your intrepid reporter, was wagging their posterior like Baloo the Bear. I nearly had to reach for the angina tablets again. The Kuti boys are also well fit. I'd have put a photo up ladies, but the Couleur Cafe site has gone a bit haywire and can't get any links in, so search for them yourselves on Yahoo Images, you old slappers. You know who you are.
Left in time to make it home on the tram. Last night France won the World Cup. The cars were still careering around Brussels with flags flying, but it was the French Tricolor now. I can't help being pleased for the Frogs, they've had a rotten couple of years, they really needed a boost. So it's going to be an all-European final. Which means Brussels goes nuts whoever wins. Tune in next weekend, same time, same channel. I got home and switched on a German TV sports programme where the presenters were laughing their heads off about England's defeat. They showed a clip of the England team singing the national anthem, with the words overdubbed into German, and the new words went along the lines of "We haven't won the Cup for 40 years, but we won't shut up about it ...." followed by something rude about Victoria and David which I didn't quite catch. I cracked up. Nice to know what other countries think of us, isn’t it?
I will definitely go to Couleur Cafe again next year, and will get a 3-day pass, which works out much better value. The price is my only complaint about this festival, which is superb in all other respects. The event is extremely well-organized, and there are plenty of stewards, medics, etc. on hand to look out for problems. The site was kept remarkably clean, mainly by the punters themselves who obediently put all their rubbish into the bins provided. The toilets were immaculate. There was an abundance of food stalls from all over the world - it's almost worth going just for the grub - and the dishes were fairly cheap (mostly 5 euros a throw) and excellent. No burgers, no hotdogs, no chips. Beer tents were plentiful, and drinks were affordable at 1.60 euros a small beer or soft drink. Nobody was drunk - not even the England fans (and you would have forgiven them under the circs). I did detect more than the occasional whiff of what we used to call illicit substances on the air. But (a) I'm not sure if they're illicit any more in Belgium, and (b) everybody was so chilled out, they've got to be an improvement on alcohol. (I don't indulge myself, you understand - a lady of my status wouldn't want to be seen dead rolling her own - but look at some of our football fans flying the flag in Germany in their own inimitable way, and then look at the peaceful though pungent dreadlocked youngsters dancing away this weekend, I think if I had teenage kids, I know where I'd prefer mine to be). The general atmosphere was one of "pissanlove" as we say on this side of the Channel. Just my luck - when I wanted to be a hippy first time round, I was too young. Now I want to be one again, I'm too old.