Saturday, September 3

THE LAST ACTION HERO



My cousin Bonzer dropped in for a few days - literally. He used to be in the British Paras, and I only flinched slightly when he abseiled through the French windows. I waited patiently while he darted from room to room shouting “Bandits at 3 o’clock !” and “Look out, they’re on the roof!”. Finally, satisfied that the house was safe, he consented to have a cup of tea and a vol-au-vent. Conversation proved to be a bit difficult in morse code, so he resorted to a stage whisper. “Really, Bonzer, don’t you think this is a little over the top?” I protested. "If you want a biscuit, help yourself."


Bonzer and Doreen have retired to a remote spot called Porpoise Spit in Queensland, which sounds delightful - the snakes in the sand dunes only come out at night usually, and they only had one shark attack last year. They can't wait for me to go out and visit. They are very active pensioners: Bonzer took up skydiving after leaving the Regiment, and finds it's the quickest way to get to the nearest Spar shop.




They were
touring Europe on a Kawasaki 750 – I recognized them straight away, as no-one else wears his ‘n hers balaclavas. Not on top of their crash helmets, anyway. Bonzer is very fit for a man of advancing years, considering he has broken virtually every bone in his body due to stalled parachutes, helicopter malfunctions and angry natives, and recently been bitten by the most poisonous snake in Australia, which he said was still preferable to facing Doreen after a three day bender up the Sunshine Coast.


Bonzer is a master of disguise. He used to prefer to masquerade as a woman when on "special ops", since they elicit less suspicion. And because he likes painting his toenails. But his methodology is questionable - if you want to blend into the crowd in a Delhi bazaar, you’re not going to pull it off by dressing as Marilyn Monroe in “The Seven Year Itch”. The fakirs recognized him immediately and shouted “Welcome back, Bonzer Sahib!”. But it’s an ill wind and whatnot. He was offered a the lead female role in a Bollywood blockbuster.


You'd have a seven year itch too if you stood over a subway grating.
Lends a whole new meaning to "going commando".


Bonzer is the soul of discretion. You won’t find him selling his stories to the tabloids. (He’ll tell them to anyone in the pub, though, for a pint of smooth). He’s hung up his balaclava now, but has been quite the action man in his day. I can’t say which regiment he was in, but I don’t think I’ll be breaching the Official Secrets Act if I tell you it’s the one where they wear ladies’ underwear. Needless to say, Bonzer isn’t his real name. But I’ve probably said too much already. You never know who’s listening. Sometimes I wonder if Bonzer’s a touch paranoid, but a basic knowledge of morse code can come in quite handy once you’ve mastered a few key phrases, such as “See you down the Scud & Wombat once she’s dozed off”, and “Don’t move, you’ve got a scorpion on your nose”. Although he was too old to take part in Gulf Wars one and two, he organized his local Neighbourhood Watch back home in Porpoise Spit into nighttime search-and-destroy patrols. They were disbanded when they took the owner of the local kebab shop hostage, but were let off after a warning from the local constabulary to stay off the XXXX. Mustafa stopped the old OAP-specials after that.


Bonzer’s regimental motto is “No worries mate” (Who Dares Wins, surely? - Ed.) and he is of an irritatingly cheery disposition, whistling Rolf Harris songs at the crack of dawn as he crashes about in the kitchen. A perfect house guest, as you can imagine. His tales of derring-do, especially after a few jars, are always good value. There’s one I particularly like about being stripped naked, covered with marmalade and left next to a beehive. I think that was on his stag night in Dunstable. He barely made it to his own wedding. And once at the altar, he would only state his name, rank and number. The future Mrs Bonzer had to stab him in the buttock with her bayonet before he coughed “I do”.


Mrs Bonzer is a woman of infinite patience and loyalty, as can be seen from her tattoos (“Who Glares Wins” on the left shoulder and “What Time Do You Call This, Then?” on the right), always at Bonzer’s side, gripping the chain only as tight as is necessary. For years she accepted without complaining all the inconveniences of Bonzer’s profession, such as live hand grenades in the tumble dryer and tunnels under the herbaceous borders. Not many women would put up with their husband being away for months at a time without a clue where he was. Especially when he only went out for a packet of Hobnobs. Mrs B waited patiently, chain-smoking Woodbines and gazing steadfastly through the razor wire, until the warrior returned. She never asked questions, and always abided by the Queensberry rules. A bit like Lara Croft in an anorak. Bonzer’s a very lucky man.



I wish I could post a picture of cousin Bonzer. Unfortunately, in the only one I have of him without his balaclava, he is in a compromising position with the regimental goat, and I don’t think that would do at all.

They still write to each other


Saturday, August 20

HOME THOUGHTS FROM ABROAD

I am just back from a whistlestop tour of the Home Counties, visiting friends, family and some old blogging contacts.

In London I went to see a concert in Regent's Park by a Brazilian jazz band, and of course it bucketed down. The band, who were called "Samara" featuring guest Brazilian vocalist Jandira Silva, and Colonel Gadaffi on keyboards (see photo), were right up my street, and despite the rain I pulled out my travel maracas (which I always carry in my voluminous handbag) to chug along with them. Bandleader Steve Rubie invited me to come up and ting his triangle, on which, as you all know I am a virtuoso.


Muammar Gadaffi guesting with "Samara", Regents Park, 6th August


I arrived in London on the rioting weekend, although thankfully witnessed no misbehaviour, having the good sense not to overnight anywhere near a branch of Carphone Warehouse. After a short weekend in the capital I headed west to Berks and Oxon to attend a family funeral and pick up a neat bit of kit from Argos (the Reading branch remained untrashed) : an Acer One netbook. A clever little thing, it fits neatly into my travel bag, has a 10 hour battery life so while waiting for Eurostar or stuck between flights, I can log on and check my e-mails, update my blog or my Facebook page, watch a film, read the news, or see what deals are on offer on Saga Holidays. I believe I am now what is known as a Silver Surfer. Or possibly a Saga Lout.



In Reading, Berks, I decided to lay the ghosts of the ill-fated bloggers' Christmas lunch of 2007 to rest in more ways than one and took my bereaved Aunt Flossie to lunch at the London Street Brasserie in Reading, where we had a delightful meal overlooking the river that runs through the Oracle (one of the best designed shopping & leisure centres in England I might venture).


London Street Brasserie, The Oracle, Reading


I visited friends down in Sussex and was taken on a tour of the Homes of the Stars in such unassuming corners as Shoreham By Sea: Chris Evans' beachside retreat towers over his relatively ordinary neighbours, and Mr and Mrs Fatboy-Slim' s house along the coast is even more discreet, backing onto a lorry park and practically in an industrial estate. That's the way to avoid the papparazzi. In Lewes, which has the most delightful town centre, there had been some mild looting the previous weekend, resulting in the disappearance of a large number of lavender pot-pourris and several bars of organic chocolate.



I am cheered to find that the Full English Breakfast is coming back into its own. A number of Greasy Spoons are now extremely trendy - the Regency Cafe on the corner of Page Street and Regency Street in SW1 has featured in several documentaries, including Andrew Neill on class, and one episode of MasterChef 2011, not to mention in the film "Layer Cake". Carats at Southwick Beach near Shoreham was packed on a Sunday morning- it was about a 20 minute wait for brunch, but well worth it.

The combination of sea air and the smell of frying bacon, not to mention the fit young kitesurfers, made me nostalgic for the country of my birth. Brighton was kicking on a sunny Sunday in August and was full of handsome young men going about in twos. It struck me that this might be just the place for a laydee of a certain age with a gay umbrella to spend her autumn years, offering tea and sympathy to any confused young men in return for them carrying my shopping back from Sainsbury's.


Hello boys!

Saturday, July 16

QUEEN OF THE STONE AGE


I never miss Glasto. From the comfort of my sofa, bien sur. I am too old to go sloshing about in mud and using portaloos. But if I was 20 again .... the rock festival phenomenon has become big business. Festivalsearcher.com lists no less than 164 rock & pop festivals across Europe alone. 164!! Since camping declined in popularity as a holiday activity, it's thanks to people like Michael Eavis that Millett's is still in business. And of course, occurring as it does on the summer solstice, it gives the Druids, new age travellers and other Friends of Scrumpy a chance for an early-morning get-together. There is an annual revival of interest in ley lines, burial barrows, megalithic stones etc.


Lines of megalithic stones just outside Carnac. How did they get here?

Here's one theory ......





Our cousins across the water have loads more megalithic stones than we do. Stonehenge may be a unique perfectly-preserved circle, but Brittany is riddled with "menhirs" "dolmens" and other ancient architecture. Rock is an ancient concept, even older than the Rolling Stones. (laughter track)

The French may have Asterix and Obelix, but the Americans invented Fred Flintstone, who I think is the quintessential stone age man. I found his house on my travels in Brittany earlier this year:


Compare and contrast: uncanny, no?


I am returning to Brittany next week, to the north side this time. And staying in proper hotels, not a plastic hoose. So I'll see you in a fortnight. And as of now, I'm on holiday for two weeks. Yabbadabbadoo!





Friday, July 8

HOW TO FALL ON YOUR SWORD



In Brussels you can watch about 400 TV channels on standard cable TV, from virtually every country in Europe and beyond. From my cable TV provider I get 7 BBC channels, 6 German channels, all 3 French terrestrial channels, all the Belgian channels in both languages, Netherlands, Luxembourg, Spain, Italy, Portugal, Greece, Poland, Turkey, Morocco and Al Djazeera. And I can assure you that there is NOTHING interesting on a Saturday night on ANY of them. Many countries still favour the Saturday night variety show. Mums and dads, grans and grandads from Lyon to Ljubljana sit on their Ikea sofas and switch their brains off to watch juggling dogs, escapologists, plate spinners and all
manner of olde-worlde entertainment. It's like the court of miracles.




The French have a particular penchant for circus acts that got left behind in the aftermath of the Cirque du Soleil, and the annual Monte Carlo Circus Festival in the presence of their royal chavnesses of Monaco is always guaranteed high ratings.


Nice trackies, Your Serene Highness (she's the one in the middle btw)


Around October (beer festival season) the Germans like to broadcast Bavarian variety shows, with everyone dressed up in tracht, lots of beerkeller orchestras and singing of songs like "Jawohl, jawohl, ich liebe Alkohol".



The Beastie Boys' take on Der Untergang

The KNOB* has tried several times to get on German TV, however they're suspicious of our Brussels connections and think we're a bit too wacky and unpredictable, all because we once dressed up as characters from 'Allo 'Allo. We would have got away with it if it hadn't turned up as 3 Herr Flicks, 2 General von Klinckerhoffens and a Helga (me). Belgian TV didn't go for it either, strangely.



However, having access to European television is a good means to spy on what UK and American celebs are doing to earn a living off-season. Rock 'n' roll stars would not like their home public to know about the sort of naff gigs they do to pay the rent on the mock tudor mansion and the stays at the rehab clinic. Secrecy is the new celebrity. Wikileaks, phone hacking, no wonder they're all taking out super injunctions. Your Europe correspondent considers it her duty, in the spirit of Julian Assange, to let you know who has sold out.


The other night I was idly flipping channels and happened upon a concert broadcast from the Plaza de Toros in Palma, Mallorca. It was a German show called "Wetten, dass?" - a cross between You Bet! and Jools Holland. This show is not to be sniffed at: it is reputedly the most popular Saturday-night TV variety show in Europe. A German porn star type male introduced acts to an audience of well disciplined German tourists, who clapped along obediently, with not so much as a hint of rhythm. It was a far cry from Glastonbury, I can tell you, with portly Germans in their brand new T-shirts standing to attention and clapping in time uncertainly, waiting for the order to stop from the middle-aged bleached blond host. In between celebrity songsters, members of the public peform bizarre stunts, and the audience bet on whether they will succeed or fail.

Such big names as Joss Stone, Jeff Beck, Coldplay, Take That, Kiss, Whitney Houston, Katy Perry, Michael Jackson, Madonna, Jennifer Lopez, Lionel Ritchie, Bryan Adams, Shakira, Britney Spears, Elton John, Joe Cocker, Lady Gaga, Pavarotti, Celine Dion, Christina Aguilera, Mariah Carey, Leona Lewis, David Bowie, Cher and Tina Turner have graced the screens of this German Saturday night variety show on channel ZDF.



At least the Germans pay well. When musicians are reduced to playing Eastern Europe they're usually on their last pair of leather trousers. Daphneleaks witnessed Boney M officially burying their career in Warsaw Old Town Square on the eve of the Millennium. Joe Cocker, Jethro Tull, Yes, Jeff Beck, Santana have toured Poland, that's usually a sign that their careers are really over. I would have advised Barack Obama against it, but he didn't ask me. Perhaps he's going to reveal a Polish ancestor too.

My channel-hopping revealed a tragic back story. Last December one of the stunts on Wetten, dass? went horribly wrong. The victim of the live stunt, 23 year old Samuel Koch, is now a quadriplegic. It is not disclosed whether audience bets on the result were honoured. As a direct result of this accident the host and porn-star lookalike Thomas Gottschalk decided to quit the show, played out on his last live broadcast from Mallorca a few weeks ago by Status Quo, his favourite band, and accompanied by famous (in Germany) footballers, actors and other slebs.


As I clapped along obediently with all the German tourists, I realized I was witnessing the very last broadcast of a long-standing popular favourite. It was like witnessing a supernova, by the time you see it it's already too late. (Yes, I've been watching Wonders of the Universe, but this is neither the time nor the place to share with you my thoughts about Brian Cox.) Or more appositely, the time I discovered a great little band called Wham! (at their farewell concert).

What other national media institution could count on a galaxy of stars from the world of sport, film and television to give it a rousing send-off on its very last appearance? Answers on a postcard, please, to News International, 1 Pennington Street, Wapping, London E98 1ST .......






* Kurt Nachtnebel Oompah Band

Saturday, July 2

TRAVELISTA



As I get older, travel becomes more of a chore. I don't enjoy long-haul flights, and after a week or so away I usually want to come home. Which kind of puts the mockers on Australia. Airports are such a bore. Security,
luggage restrictions, waiting around .... and that's before you've even got on the plane. Unless you can get where you're going on a decent carrier, it's cattle class all the way. I always manage to get either a screaming baby right behind, or a big fat bloke right in front who puts his seat back as soon as he sits down, allowing me about six inches of space between my face and the back of his seat. Hardly room to open out my copy of How to Spend It. A sinus condition means that I need to get half a dozen Nurofen down me two hours before landing or else I get off the plane looking like Munck's "The Scream". For the same reason I do not drink alcohol while flying, and the food is usually inedible, if you get any at all.

Arrivals lounge

If you don't fly, and don't own a car, your options are considerably reduced. I am developing an expensive habit of pranging hire cars, and really only the train is a suitable and safe mode of perambulation. For me and everyone else. Luckily, from Brussels you can take a train and be in London, Paris, Amsterdam or Cologne within a couple of hours.


The best thing about Brussels


Then there's the accommodation. I need a degree of comfort these days, my own bathroom and to be able to lock my door and have some me-time. I recently experimented with one of the so-called four-star campsites in France, but frankly, no. The walls were thin, the nights were cold, and the caravans (or "mobil'omes" as the French inexplicably call them, as they are up on bricks and far from mobile) were much too close together. McChe summed it up: "It's a plastic hoose, the noo!". Four stars nothing.

Trailer park trash

I'm afraid I'm getting to the stage in my life when only a four or five star hotel will do, whatever the cost. I don't need a swimming pool - unless I have exclusive use of it - and I'm not bothered about a spa or a fitness centre, but I do require a spacious bathroom, a good breakfast buffet, air conditioning and room to swing a cat.



Swinging cat

Then there are the destinations. I have seen most of Europe. I have seen the East and West coasts of the USA, Las Vegas and New Mexico, and that will probably see me through to the end of my days. Do I need to see Missouri? I don't think so. I have many relatives in Australia but am put off by the distance and the fact that of the ten most deadly species of animal on the planet, nine of them live in Australia (my family not included). My cousin Bonzer should know, he recently got bitten on the foot by an Eastern brown snake and nearly died. Luckily there was a kangaroo nearby who understood English and fetched an ambulance.


Don't just stand there Skip!


I don't enjoy great heat, great humidity or mosquitoes, who, perversely, love me. I have a delicate Hibernian complexion and burn in the sun. I did a couple of stints in West Africa with Harold, and I would rather stick hatpins in my eyes than return there. I have a soft spot for North Africa - Morocco, particularly - and may well consider a winter break in a riad. You can keep the rest of the Arab world, including Dubai, which looks like Las Vegas with minarets. A large part of the planet is taken up by Russia, which does not grab me in the least. India is not worth the trouble either - full of flies and disease and poverty, and you can get the music, culture and food by visiting Leicester or Birmingham, or watching an episode of EastEnders.



Birmingham, home of the balti


Which leaves the Far East. Now there's somewhere I wouldn't mind visiting, if I could withstand the long-haul flight. Not Japan -- I must agree with a friend of mine who once said watching a Japanese film was like watching people from Mars. But China fascinates me. Echoes of decadent Shanghai in the 1920's, the Tiger Lilies in their cheong-sams, and the food is to die for. I could eat my way round Hong Kong. Moving south, Thailand, Cambodia and particularly Vietnam are even more tempting.


I grew up with the Vietnam War. The names Da Nang, Hue, Saigon, Khe Sanh, My Lai, Ho Chi Minh, Marshal Ky, Le Duc Tho, and General Giap were tripping off my tongue by age 15. My parents were still banging on about the Second World War which had been over for 25 years, but this was my generation's war, the first rock 'n' roll war. Helicopters, jungles, napalm, Grosvenor Square 1969 - why the hell were we Brits protesting? We weren't even there. I remember watching on telly the last helicopter picking somebody off the roof of the US Embassy in Saigon hours before the Viet Cong rolled victoriously into the city. At 18 I could have passed an A-level on the Vietnam War. In the aftermath I lapped up every book and film about it: William Shawcross's "Sideshow", Michael Herr's "Despatches", "Apocalypse Now", "The Deer Hunter", "Full Metal Jacket", "Band of Brothers", you name it, I couldn't get enough of 'Nam.




Later, in Paris. I discovered the delights of Vietnamese cuisine and learnt about the pre-war history of the country, Dien Bien Phu and all that. Other wars came and went: the Falklands, Lebanon, Bosnia, Somalia, Afghanistan, Iraq .... but none of them had the sheer
rock 'n' rollness of Vietnam. Later, I heard Vietnam had abandoned a centralized economy and was thriving again, even opening up to tourism. I have been looking at photographs and have been seduced by the beauty of the place. It's like watching a derelict garden come back to life. If I have to sit on a plane for 14 hours, a boat trip on Ha Long Bay could make me feel better quite quickly.